Sorting the strips
Establishing a pattern, and planking
the bow and stern (page 2 of 3 pages)
Clamping the outside shear strip. This
strip has had the bead ripped off with a band saw to leave a nice square 90-degree
corner that the deck shear can later be mated with. I glued this strip to the inside
shear with Tightbond wood glue using almost every spring clamp that I owned to keep
it in position. Patience!!! Since this first strip is the reference strip for each
respective side of the hull, it is really important that this strip smoothly flows
the length of the boat.
Clamping detail. Here a spring clamp and a bungee cord were employed to both hold
the strip in place as well as pull it inward, respectively. (Note the little section
of wood bead ripped from a piece of waste strip stock that is used to protect the
cove of the top strip.)
Planking the bow and stern. The
bow and stern spars have been tapered to realatively sharp points, and the strips
are trimmed flush as they terminate. They are not only glued to their adjoining strips,
but to the bow and stern spars. In tough clamping situations it isn't really a problem
to use staples, bungie cords and blocks, or drive in some small brads through the
sides of the strips into the spar, whatever it takes to hold them in place 'till
the glue dries. Later, I will finish-off the bow and stern with some laminated ash
strips laid up with epoxy resin, prior to glassing the hull, then a nice thick strip
of glass tape along the keel, down the length of the boat. This is more along the
lines of how Moores handles the bow and stern detailing in his book; check out Nick
Shade's technique of finger-jointing the bow and stern for a completely different
approach (bibligraphy). Also, the second strip down is a tapered "cheater-strip."
These are used to help even out sharp curves (next page).
Please continue on to the next page...
Next (so what is
a "cheater-strip"?)
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