Checking the set up

Lock in the forms and set the shear lines

Ready to go strip! The bow and stern spars are fitted and the edges of the forms have been masked with vinyl packaging tape. The halves of the spars have been glued together and lightened with milled holes (by using a Forstner bit in a drill-press). The bow spar has been fitted with the shear strips that have been tapered to terminate "into" the bow form so that the strips on it will evenly flow into the bow and the adjoining srips. The tiny nut, bolt, and washers works well to keep everything aligned during the final set-up prior to glassing in the shear fillets and planking. It and the one in the stern can be placed in the hull half of the shear strip and removed later, or carefully inletted, planked over by the first hull plank and left in the boat.

Note that the shear strips terminate on the spars at their (the shear stips) centerline. The "overhang" on the deck side will be trimmed off (line on shear strip) and the first hull strip will be trimmed to match the taper to the bow and stern. This should make it easier to fit the deck to the hull, as well as make the stips visually flow to the points of the bow ans stern. The dark lines on the bow spar are where I though that I first wanted the shears to terminate, but I changed by mind once I had a chance to test fit a few strips.

Testing the set up. The the edges of the forms have been masked with vinyl packaging tape, and the bow and stern spars have been temporarily fitted to uprights that secure them to the building frame. A few strips have been clamped here and there for sight lines to help "eye-ball" the curves of the boat. Prior to stripping, the shear strips will be epoxied to the bow and stern spars, as will the keel strip... this will help hold everything in place, and allow for removal of the screws temporarily holding the bow and stern spars to the uprights (the uprights can then be removed).

The shear strips are glued to the bow and stern spars, as well as affixed to a few of the station molds (through pre-drilled holes in the strips) by pan-head sheet metal screws or a well-placed staple or two. These fasteners are positioned in the lower (deck overlap) half of the shear strip. In effect, that means that I can plank the hull, but the fasteners are still exposed for removal before detatching the uprights, flipping the hull over, and going on to the deck planking. This helps hold the shear strips in place until the hull is laid up and a coat of epoxy resin has locked the whole works in place. Later, if a screw has become glued onto a form, touching it with a hot soldering iron will loosen the grip of the resin.

Testing the curves with some strips. Two nice new cove and bead cedar strips positioned over the shear strip (darker line visable below the lower (lighter) strip). The shear strip is flush with the station forms. The little 1/4-inch L-brakcet and a squeeze clamp are handy and allow you to use a lot less staples (and put a lot less holes in the boat). It is a good idea to test fit the strips before gluing them... You will be able to see where a station form is missaligned, and where you may have to specially mill or cut a "cheater" strip to make a particularly tight bend or contour. One or two cheater strips (about 1- to 2-feet long) are usually used in the bow and stern to even out the planking. They are full width at one end, but taper back to visually disappear into the full length strips. See Shade or Moore (boat-building bibloiography) for additional details.



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