A Big Glue-up

Mating the hull and deck, building the coaming lip. (page 1 of 3 pages)

Done for the day. This is a photo of the afternoon's work while the resin adhesive is drying. In the following pages I'll detail what we accomplished. Note the stitch-n-glue soft wire ties that hold the deck and hull together and the liberal use of clamps on the coaming lip laminations.

Wire tie and hull joint (detail). The stitch-n-glue seam involves drilling a hole that is the diameter of the tie wire into each component that is to be joined, then inserting the iron or copper wire tie. The tie is left loosely in place until all of the ties are positioned, and (in this case) the lap joint is coated with thickened epoxy resin. Then they are twist-tightened with a pliers, pulling the joint together. Sometimes the wires break while tightening the joint. Don't get discouraged, there is always a lot of adjustment and re-wiring during this step.

Wire tie and hull joint (inside). This is a photo taken through the front hatch opening. After the seam joint sets up, it is time to add a thickened-epoxy fillette to the deck-hull joint at the top insde shear. I make this mixture runny enough that the resin can flow down into the joint, yet still create a realtively smooth transition from the deck wall to the shear strip.

Wire tie and hull joint (bow). The bow and stern can be secured with a wire wrap passed through the mooring-line holes. The outside seam joint and the mooring line holes have been touched-up with thickened epoxy at the time that this photo was taken. When the resin is dry, the wires are snipped and pulled with a pliers. If a wire is particularly stubborn, it can first be heated with the tip of an electric soldering gun to release it from the epoxy. The small wire-tie holes should fill when the seam is glass taped and the boat is clear coated, or they can be singled out for filling with little blobs of resin.



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